Saint-Malo

Cafe de Saint-Malo
4 Place Guy la Chambre

Just inside grande porte. the restaurant here is unspectacular, but what makes this the best deal in intramuros is the window selling fresh seafood to go. for €5, you can get a dozen large oysters, preshelled, on ice and with a quartered lemon.

Petit Crêpier

Rue ste barbe, tel. +33-299409319, (http://www.chez.com/lepet...). true to the name, this restaurant is small and has crepes, but their daily selection of seafood galettes is a cut above the pack. €10.

Captain-Ice

Rue jacques cartier, intra-muros. this may well be the best ice cream place in town. try amour de glace love of ice cream for something really yummy. prices are slightly high, but you get big quantities and very high quality!

Saint-Malo is a great place to sample Breton specialties.

Breton Pancakes: not just the world-famous sweet crêpes, but also savoury galettes.

Kouing Aman: this is a delicious Breton cake made with butter and sugar. Try to sample them piping hot, especially the ones with apple added in.

Mussels moules: fished in the place and available in any restaurants.

Oysters huitres: the best are from Cancale, a village near to Saint-Malo. In France, they are eaten raw.

The Intramuros area has what is quite possibly France's highest concentration of creperies and seafood restaurants. Most cater solely to tourists and are effectively identical.

Coté brasserie

8, rue des cordiers intra-muros, tel. 2-99568340. new proprietary. . seafoods and chips. well separated smoking and non-smoking areas. €20-40.

In St Malo you can eat at any time of day. In smaller towns nearby, tip: look out for the lunchtime menu ouvrière workers' menu}; often there is little or no choice of dishes, but what you get is genuine French home cooking (love those fries! for half the price, if that, of what you'll pay in a tourist centre like St Malo or Mont St Michel. French lunchtime is sacred. Every French person observes it religiously.